CJ's Tip of the Month Archive
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January 2012
Greetings from the International Sportsman’s Expo in Denver, Colorado! The show runs from January 5th through the 8th. Stop by if you are in the area. We would love to meet you. This year old article about preparing your dog for cold weather conditions is well worth repeating.
Wow, where did the time go! We are getting towards the end of this years upland hunting season. We make every effort to crowd in those last hunts, because we know it will be another several months before we can go afield again for wild birds. Of course, we can go to our favorite hunt or dog club and extend the season on pen raised birds. However, nothing satisfies like hunting wild birds.
Now you may be asking, “What is he getting at?” The purpose of this article is to prepare your dog for cold weather hunts. Dogs may burn up to twice as many calories hunting in very cold conditions, say 10 degrees F. Let's throw in some wind and snow. Now you have perfect conditions for your dog to easily develop hypothermia. Here are a few tips that can help:
1. Make sure your dog is well hydrated. Many dogs “turn their nose up” when offered water in the field. I add a little beef or chicken broth crystals to the water to give it flavor. Also, have a squirt bottle or folding cup with you, in your vest. Pause every 15 – 20 minutes and force them to drink a few ounces. Cold air is very dry. When dogs breathe heavily, they expel moisture from their system much quicker than in 40 to 50 degree weather.
2. Rest your dog more often. Take a break to enjoy all the aspects of the hunt. Your dogs legs, and yours too, will welcome a rest.
3. Increase the amount of food you give your dog during the hunting season. They are burning twice the calories than during the off season. Also, add water to the food during the hunting season. I make the dry food “slurpy” to ensure hydration.
4. Get your dog on a dietary supplement, such as our “Hunt Dog Hunt” formula. It contains antioxidants which will reduce fatigue and give your dog more energy in the field.
5. Carry some packaged “burger” foods in your vest. This provides a high energy snack along with some moisture. About 1/3 of a package three times during the day should suffice.
6. Put a chest protector on your dog. Their chests and tummies are in almost constant contact with snow which exposes the skin to extreme cold. Their undersides, especially shorthaired pointing breeds, have much less hair for protection. Also, hard crusty snow can actually cut your dog’s skin. This leads to another tip.
7. Dog Boots! Your dog has hair between its pads. This is especially true for the longer haired breeds. Ice can build up between the pads causing your dog to either stop and chew or to quit hunting altogether.
8. Last, but surely not least. Make sure your travel kennel is equipped with an insulation cover. This especially holds true if your dog travels in the exposed bed of a pick up. Even if your truck has a topper unit, an insulated cover on the travel kennel will protect your dog from windy drafts that come during travel at higher speeds.
May you all enjoy the last 30 days of the season. You will have less competition on public access areas. Land owners are more apt to grant permission to hardy souls willing to brave the elements of late season hunting.
Stop by again next month for another training tip.
December 2011
In October we discussed how to train your dog to retrieve to hand. What if my dog cannot find the downed bird? This can occur, especially with wounded pheasants, during dry and windy conditions. This is where training your dog to track helps to prevent bird loss in the field.
I like to start this once my dog has learned to retrieve to hand consistently (See archive for October 2011). I start by making it simple. You can hide a scented or winged training dummy in your yard, let’s say behind a bush, shrub, or under some cut grass. First, put the dog in an area where it cannot see you hide the dummy. Then drag the dummy from a chosen starting point, making sure you have plenty of contact with the ground. Also make sure you keep the dummy away from you, so you don’t contaminate the bird scent with yours. This can be done by hanging the dummy from a 4 or 5 foot pole. Drag the dummy to the hiding place, and release it from the pole. Take your dog to the starting point, and release it giving the command “DEAD” in a low guttural tone. When your dog finds the dummy, encourage the retrieve, and praise your dog lavishly when the dummy is returned to you. Repeat the process until your dog finds the bird easily and returns it directly to you. Change the hiding spots to encourage your dog to use its nose and to search.
Next, you can “up the ante” by using a frozen bird instead of the dummy as well as hiding the bird in cover. Increase the distance of the drag and the difficulty (height) of the cover. Do this until your dog consistently finds the bird at 30, 40, 50 yards and beyond. Now you have a much greater chance of retrieving those downed birds that have run off and hidden.
November 2011
The upland bird and waterfowl seasons are underway, and we are out with our dogs as often as our schedules will allow. While in the fields and ponds, our “best friends” may come across some undesirable critters, one being a skunk. The spray of a skunk is one of the most pungent and difficult to remove odors you will ever encounter.
Thirty plus years ago, my first German Shorthair made a beautiful point on one of these despicable characters. It didn’t take long to figure out that it wasn’t a pheasant at the end of his nose! It was then that I learned that tomato juice is not the answer to removing skunk odor from a dog, or anything else for that matter. Needless to say, my dog spent 30 plus days outside in his dog run before being allowed to return inside the house. Since that time, I have come across a very inexpensive formula that does work, and I want to share it with you.
Here it is:
1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide
¼ cup baking soda
1 teaspoon liquid soap
Mix the three ingredients together, and use immediately. Wet your dog down, and apply the mixture. Work thoroughly through the dog’s hair.
Leave the solution on for 3-4 minutes. DO NOT LET SOAK FOR MORE THAN 4 MINUTES. Then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Make up only as much of the solution as you can use at one time. Once you mix the hydrogen peroxide with the baking soda, it is no longer stable. You cannot store it in a capped bottle or container, because it will explode from all the oxygen emitted.
I suggest you carry these ingredients with you whenever you go a field with your dog. Then you will be able to rectify the situation immediately.
October 2011
We all love to see a dog that retrieves right to hand. This puts the finishing touch on a fine retrieve. However, many of us have dogs that do a great job finding downed birds, pick them up, and then bring them part of the way to us. This is known as a partial retrieve. I have seen hunters in the field and handlers in field trials nearly “stand on their heads” to get their dog to retrieve to hand. There are a couple of reasons dogs do not complete the retrieve to hand. One, they are anxious to find more birds. Two, and the most probable one, is that we present a wall standing in front of them as they approach. Here are a couple of tips that may be helpful to you.
First, during training sessions, turn sideways when the dog approaches. This gives the dog a path past you, and it encourages them to continue coming. When they arrive, command WHOA (pointers) or SIT (retrievers/flushers), and let them maintain possession of the dummy/bird for a few seconds. One of the biggest problems is the hunter/handler grabbing the bird from the dog. This creates hard mouth problems, as the dog wants to maintain possession. By waiting a few seconds, you allow the dog “ownership”, and eventually they will give it up willingly.
The second approach is to move backwards as the dog approaches you. You have trained your dog to come to you, and it will continue coming as you’re moving away. The trick is for you to move back slower than the dog is approaching. He will catch up to you, and you can reach down and praise the dog lavishly while letting your dog maintain possession of the dummy/bird. Again, your dog will eventually release the bird willingly. Patience and repetition are both key.
September 2011
Here it is, September 1st, and the fall hunting season is upon us.
This is truly my favorite time of the year. As you read this month’s tip, Shawnee and I will be heading to the mountains for some Blue (Dusky) Grouse and Columbian Sharptail hunting.
September 1st is the traditional opener for dove hunting in many states. Our tip this month is for how you can use dove hunting to prepare your dog for the upcoming waterfowl season.
How’s that you say? In the duck or goose blind your dog has to sit still, mark birds in flight and in fall and retrieve upon your command. Right!
Think about it. That is exactly the same routine called for in dove hunting. So, don’t leave the dog at home. Get out and enjoy the time together. You will have a great time and your dog will be getting that all important reinforcement for the upcoming waterfowl season.
August 2011
This is an article I wrote for this column in 2009. Since the fall hunting season is right around the corner and it is of utmost importance to condition our dogs, I felt it worthy of repeating.
Remember, repetition through association is how are dogs learn. That process works for people too!
"Well the bird hunting season is almost upon us. In many states it starts around the 1st of September with the dove hunting season. In my state of Colorado, we are fortunate to begin with several species. Dove, blue grouse, mountain sharptail grouse, sage grouse, ptarmigan, chukar and band tailed pigeon seasons all start in September.
Now is the time to get your bird dog (and you) off the couch and into the fields for some serious conditioning. Many a serious hunter “roads” their dog(s) with a harness system hooked up to their ATV. If you own a bicycle you can have your dog run beside you. Be careful as to not letting the lead get caught up in the spokes. Just plain jogging with your dog will improve their condition if they have been inactive all summer. Too many hunters neglect to do pre-season conditioning. Your dog requires “training camp” just like professional athletes.
So get your dogs into the fields and work them on pen raised birds or wild birds if available. Remember, it can be very hot this time of year. So confine your workouts to early morning or evening hours when the temperature is cooler. Also, have plenty of water available as you want to keep your dog well hydrated.
July 2011
Proper handling of our dogs in the field is absolutely necessary for several reasons. One, it keeps our dog from interfering with other dogs. Two, it keeps our dog within required boundaries. Good examples are: not encroaching on land upon which we do not have permission to hunt, staying in our assigned area of a preserve, and remaining within the boundary during a field trial.
Proper handling in the field begins with obedience training and your training routine. Keep your dog in its crate or on a tie out until you are ready to train. Never allow your dog to run around off lead when you are getting prepared to train. Your dog should know how to HEEL at your side off lead. Also, your dog should WHOA (pointing dog) or SIT (retriever/flusher) off lead. Use of the E-collar as a reminder is perfect in this situation. I always have the E-collar on my dog when hunting even though they are completely broke (finished). It is good insurance in potential emergency situations. If you develop a solid routine for training, it will carry over to the hunting field. When you are organized to proceed on your hunt, just release your dog either with a tap on the head or a verbal or whistle command.
When in the field you do not want to constantly be giving verbal, whistle, or hand signal commands. This is known as “hacking.” You will need a degree of this during early yard training when teaching your dog to quarter a field. You will train your dog to stay between 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock when teaching it to quarter. The dog should follow in a direction with you, and with plenty of repetition, your dog will learn to hunt in front of you.
The key to effective handling is to watch your dog. Learn to read your dog. He will tell you by his actions when there are birds in the field. You want your dog to hunt for you. Remember, you are a team; your dog has the nose and you have the gun!
In a nutshell, proper handling keeps your dog from going where you do not want it to go rather than to where you do want it to go.
June 2011
This month we will expand hunting dead to teaching your dog to track wounded birds or birds that fled from the fall site and later died. It is important that your dog posses this skill. Our goal is to recover as close to 100% of all birds harvested as possible.
Bird dogs are blessed with excellent olfactory senses (noses), so it is just a matter of teaching them the proper technique to track a running bird. Once your dog masters the techniques presented last month (May 2011), the ability to track will come very quickly.
I like to start with the wing wrapped training dummy in a yard training situation. Place your dog in an area where it cannot see what you are doing. Then drag the wing wrapped dummy to simple hiding place. Behind a tree is a good starting point. Make sure your drag is a reasonable distance from you, say 3 to 4 feet. You do not want to mask the bird scent with yours. Attach the dummy to a pole in a manner in which it can easily be released.
Release your dog to the area where you started dragging the dummy. Command "dead" or "hunt dead." Your dog will pick up the scent and will soon find the hidden bird. Keep increasing the difficulty of the hiding place by increasing the distance and height of the cover. Remember to praise your dog lavishly when it brings the dummy back to you. This will encourage your dog to search diligently for "the bird," as it knows it will be rewarded for doing so.
The next step is to move to a field training situation. You will want to add some bird scent to the winged dummy to make the situation as real as possible. Again, start with short, simple hiding spots. Move to longer, more difficult situations, weaving in an "S type" pattern. Your next step will be to go to a frozen bird and finally on to a clipped-wing live bird.
Repeated exercise of this drill will insure you have a dog that will enthusiastically search for and recover your downed birds.
May 2011
Spring and summer are a good time to evaluate our dog’s performance this past hunting season. Maybe your dog did well on points or flushes and retrieves. However, locating downed birds may have been a problem. Training your dog to “hunt dead” and to track is a great program to focus on during the off season.
In the case of a younger dog, I like to start with a tennis ball. These make great toys and can be obtained cheaply or at no cost at all. Go to your local tennis club as they have discards they will gladly give you.
Begin by playing “hide and seek” with your dog. Start with simple hides where the dog can readily find the ball and return it to you. If your dog enjoys retrieving things to you, this drill will be learned rather quickly. If not, you will need to work on instilling a desire to retrieve in your dog. Say the command “hunt dead” or “dead” in a low, calm voice. Say the command each time after you have hidden the ball. Your dog will pick up on it after a few repetitions. Once the dog easily locates the simple finds, increase the level of difficulty. Hide the ball under a table or better yet, under a towel or cloth. Your dog will then learn to use its nose to find the ball, which is what you want.
Next, move the game outside into your yard. Place some liquid game bird scent on the ball. The textured surface of the tennis ball holds the scent well. Again, start with simple finds and then move up to more difficult ones. Keep the game fun to avoid curtailing your dog’s enthusiasm.
The next step is to move to a wing wrapped training dummy. Any game bird wing will suffice. I use zip ties to hold the wing in place. Again, add the appropriate bird scent to the wing, which will attract your dog to that “wonderful aroma”. Increasingly difficult finds are achieved by placing the dummy in heavier cover and at longer distances. Don’t forget the “hunt dead” command. If the dog is having trouble locating the dummy, lead them to it. Praise them lavishly even if you have to lead them right to it. This way your dog will gain confidence as the sessions are repeated. Next you can increase the “ante” by using dead birds and progress to flight-limited live birds.
One purpose of hunting over a dog is to recover downed birds. Occasionally, due to conditions, even the best dog will lose a bird. However, if you are diligent in teaching your dog to “hunt dead”, bird losses will be minimal.
Next month we’ll be expanding “hunt dead” training by discussing how to teach your dog to track crippled birds. See you then.
April 2011
Springtime is when many folks decide to get a new gun dog pup.
This month’s training tip coincides somewhat with last years series of tips. To refresh your memory we spent the spring and summer last year discussing how to get that new pup and get it ready for its first hunting season.
You may be considering a new pup but you have an older dog. You may be saying to yourself, “My dog is 6 years old and in its prime. I’ll wait until it is 9 or 10 before I get that new pup.” My recommendation is that you do not wait! If you are definite about getting a new pup, now is the time to bring that new pup into your home.
There are several reasons for doing so which follow:
1. Your present dog is in their prime and can take the excessive running and exuberant “play” behavior of the pup. It can simply run away from the pup if it wants.
2. Your present dog will have a kennel mate and in time they will become “good buddies”
3. Once trained, the new dog will allow you to rest your current dog and they will not be so exhausted from those multiple day hunting trips.
4. Although somewhat controversial, the new pup can learn some things from your present dog. Things like quartering a field, searching out certain objectives and honoring come to mind.
It is important to get that new pup before osteoarthritis and a “crotchety” attitude sets in. When you do get that new pup, don’t forget to show attention to your current dog. Remember, they used to be the “star” of the show. Show them even more attention than before. You want to reassure them that they are still the “top dog” and the new pup has not changed their status at all. When the time for retirement of the older dog comes, it will be a much easier transition for you and your dog.
March 2011
My Dog is Lost!
Proper obedience training and some common sense will keep you from losing your four-legged hunting companion.
While hunting in Nebraska this past fall, a good friend lost his young setter for several hours. In addition, he missed out on some of the most incredible pheasant hunting of the weekend. Here is the situation. Our group of five hunters and dogs set up to hunt a draw, which we knew held plenty of birds. We had not gone 20 yards into the cover when a nice mule buck jumped up from its bed. The deer took off in a flash, and unfortunately, so did my friend’s setter! The anxious “here Telly here” commands seemed to cheer the young dog on. Needless to say, our friend was not only upset with his dog but very worried as they were both in unfamiliar country.
What should one do not only to prevent a situation like this but to cope with it if it does happen? Let’s discuss prevention first. Obedience training, especially re-call to the whistle, is paramount. Your dog must come in to the re-call whistle command consistently under all circumstances and situations. This means re-calling the dog in locations other than your yard and regular training fields of which he/she has become quite familiar. Being in strange areas and having other dogs or people around when practicing the re-call command are great ways of training your dog to come in consistently.
Other steps include:
1. Have your name and telephone number(s), including your cell number, engraved on a brass plate which is riveted to your dog’s collar. “Dangle” type tags are easily stripped of by a dog running at high speed in dense and heavy cover.
2. Have your dog’s e-collar conditioned to remind them that you have given the re-call command. Remember, the dog must be properly trained (conditioned) when using the e-collar. Read the instructions, and watch the videos provided by the manufacturer before beginning any e-collar conditioning. In fact, I recommend that you read the instructions and watch the videos at least twice before undertaking any e-collar conditioning.
3. Have your dog micro-chipped. Most vets or shelters have a scanning device. This is a very low-cost insurance policy that may ensure your dog’s safe return.
4. Lastly, you can invest in a GPS unit designed explicitly for locating dogs. Ah, the benefits of the high tech age!
However, what if you are confronted with a situation resembling what my friend encountered? Take off your jacket, or shirt if the day is cold, and place it on the ground in the approximate location from which the dog took off. Remember, your dog has a great nose and can scent its way back from where it started. Your item of clothing will ensure your dog’s familiarity with the location, and he/she just may remain there until you return. Also, you may just return to your vehicle and find your dog waiting there for you. That has happened in many cases when dogs lose their hunters!
The main thing is to “keep your cool” and not drive off aimlessly looking for your dog. If you do leave the location, try and remember the direction in which your dog ran off. Check back frequently to see if your dog has returned.
My friend found his dog, after a 3-hour search, by returning to the spot where the dog ran off. There was Telly, asleep under a tree, waiting for his master’s return. He wasn’t concerned at all!
February 2011
The formal fall hunting season is now over in most states. Hopefully, it was a memorable one for you and your “best friend”. Now you may be asking yourself, “What can I do to keep my dog in shape and its senses keen?”
Just like professional athletes train year round, so should you and your dog! I offer the following “off season” program to help you and your dog stay in shape:
1. Bare Minimum
- Daily walks (1 to 2 miles if possible)
- Training dummy drills 2 to 3 times per week
- Re-enforce obedience commands you use in the field/blind 2 to 3 times per week.
- Give your dog the opportunity to run for 30 minutes 3-4 times per week. Daily would be better.
2. Upping the Ante
- All of the above plus
- Work your dog on live birds once or twice per week
- Other field work such as blind retrieves and tracking
Reference: Training Tip February 2010 in our archives for places to train your dog.
Your dog will enjoy these sessions and the opportunity to spend quality time with you. The more time you spend working with your dog the better he/she and you will be. Enjoy the off season.
January 2011
Click the link below to read CJ's tribute to his beloved dog Cheyenne.
Cheyenne, Goodbye to My Loving and Loyal Best Friend
December 2010
As I write this column, the upland bird hunting season is well underway. If you are a pheasant hunter, you will want to take advantage of the tremendous populations of pheasants in northeast Colorado, northwest Kansas and southwest Nebraska. Just to wet your appetite, below is a photo of the birds taken during our recent Nebraska hunt.
During our recent hunts we experienced above normal sand burr and goat head stickers. When you have abundant rainfall, which is good for pheasant habitat, you have abundant weed growth (stickers and burrs). These create terrible problems as they stick on your dog’s feet, causing an extreme amount of pain. This can cause your dog to completely shut down. In some instances, you may have to actually carry your dog out of the field!
There is a solution – DOG BOOTIES. I want to caution you here, there are dog boots… and then there are dog boots. Usually: the higher the price, the better the boots. I recommend you obtain them from a reputable supplier specializing in bird dog hunting training supplies and equipment. Many have on-line catalogues. Be sure to measure your dog’s feet per the instructions given by the manufacturer. Also, I recommend you wrap a piece of duct tape over the upper portion of the dog boot around the dog’s legs to prevent them from coming off during your hunt.
Once you obtain the dog boots, you will want to get your dog out in the field on some training sessions using his/her “new shoes.” Many dogs do not take to them right away, and it will take some acclimation so the dog is comfortable running. A couple of sessions should do the trick.
Now you and your dog are ready to enjoy some incredible pheasant hunting!
CJ, Cheyenne & Shawnee
November 2010
As I write this month’s training tip, we are headed to Nebraska for the pheasant season opener. The weather forecast is for warm and sunny conditions over the weekend. Early season pheasant hunting is often accompanied by warm and sometimes even hot conditions. Thus, this month’s tip is a reminder to all of us to keep our dogs well hydrated.
When we are walking five miles, our dogs are running 15 miles or more! This requires us to pay close attention to our dogs. If your dog is panting excessively and its tongue is hanging out of the side of its mouth, he/she is overheating. Give the dog some water and take a 5 to 10 minute break. I like to take a short break every hour. Remember to drink frequently yourself. You need to be well hydrated as well.
By drinking small amounts frequently, your dog’s and your stamina will improve and you both will have more energy and feel much better. Also, give your dog a good dietary supplement, such as Hunt Dog Hunt. It contains anti-oxidants which allow your dog to hunt longer and to recover quicker from strenuous exercise. I invite you to read more about this great product in the Product Section on the web site. My dogs love it because it tastes good. I love it because it works!
Remember, pheasant hunting is supposed to be enjoyable, not a forced march. Stop and enjoy the countryside. You and your dog will enjoy those moments of relaxation together.
October 2010
As the 2010 Pheasant season approaches, this is the final session on getting your new pup ready for its first hunting season. WOW, where has the time gone! In this session we will be discussing the trained retrieve. Some of you have pups that willingly retrieve naturally. Count your blessings. However, some of you have pups that may be reluctant to retrieve, and that is where we will focus our discussion.
I like to start a pup out on the “take and give” approach. You will want to use a small diameter training dummy or a barbell-shaped wooden dowel for this drill. Start out by placing your hand on the top of the dog’s muzzle and command “TAKE”, squeezing the dog’s jaws open. Place the dummy (or dowel) into the dog’s mouth and hold it for a couple of seconds. Then command “GIVE”, and remove the dummy. Repeat this process until the dog freely “TAKES” the dummy and freely “GIVES” it to you. Now you want to add the command “HOLD”. Force the dog to hold the dummy in its mouth a few seconds. Then command “GIVE”, and the dog will release the dummy. Keep increasing the “HOLD” time duration until pup freely holds the dummy for 30 seconds or more and freely gives it to you upon command. This is an easy drill, which you can conduct daily for 5 to 10 minutes maximum at one time.
The next step is to command “TAKE” and move a few paces, say 5 feet, away from pup. Command “HERE” (learned earlier), encouraging pup to come to you with the dummy. Command “GIVE” when pup comes to you. Ifpup drops the dummy anytime prior to reaching you, command “TAKE”, then “HOLD”, and lead pup to you on a check cord. You may have to hold the dummy in pup’s mouth as you lead pup to where you were standing when you gave the initial command. BE PATIENT! This is a step-by-step process. Once pup consistently and freely brings the dummy the 5 feet to you, increase the distance incrementally until you reach the end of your 30-foot check cord.
Now take the dummy, and toss it within the 30-foot length of the check cord. Encourage pup to go after and retrieve the dummy to you. You want pup to bring the dummy within a couple of paces. If pup brings the dummy to your hand, so much the better. However, you are looking for pup to make a serviceable retrieve, and you can work on a finished retrieve to hand as the season progresses.
The next step is to take a frozen bird and have pup retrieve that to you. You may need to alternate between the dummy and the bird so pup catches on. If pup hesitates in picking up the frozen bird, try a wing or put a wing on the dummy to encourage pup.
If you have not yet properly introduced your dog to the gun, you must do so before you take the final step on retrieving. Please go into our training tip archive, October of 2009, where I explain how to properly introduce your dog to the gun. Once your pup shows no sign of hesitation around gunfire, you are ready to proceed.
The last step is to purchase some pigeons, quail, or chukars from a nearby upland bird hunting preserve or farm. Most will offer you a reduced rate for training your pup. Have your dog point (or flush them if it is a flushing breed), you move in, and in the case of the pointing breed, flush the bird, and shoot it. Your pup will happily chase after the downed bird and should be encouraged to bring the bird to within a couple of paces. Repeat until your pup consistently brings the bird to you. Remember, we are looking for a staunch point and a serviceable retrieve. Steady to the wing and shot with a retrieve to hand can come with later training.
You now have a started pup that can begin its first hunting season with you. You have the foundation upon which you and your pup can develop into a workman like team; a team that will enjoy many a fine day afield together for years to come. The very best to you this hunting season.
September 2010
In this segment, we will be working on holding point (staunch) and steady to the wing in a field training situation. As in our previous yard training program, you will place the pigeon on a tether (See August's tip). The pigeon should be placed in a bird launcher, either mechanical or electronic remote controlled. This allows you to teach your dog to scent point vs. sight point. Have your dog on a 30 foot check cord. Place the launcher in cover of at least 10”- 12” in height.
The key here is that you want your dog to stop and point the instant it makes scent contact. Lead the dog into the wind on the check cord. Release the bird. Command WHOA if the dog creeps trying to see the bird after making scent contact. Return the dog to its original position and repeat the process. Again, the goal is to have your dog scent point not sight point.
You want your dog to go on point a minimum of 25’ to 30’ from the bird. Any closer may cause the bird to flush once you eliminate the bird launcher. The bird launcher can be eliminated once your dog consistently holds point on a bird released from the launcher without commanding WHOA or pulling on the check cord.
Now you can place tethered birds directly onto the ground and repeat the process. When your dog goes on point, move in and flush the bird. If the dog moves, pick him/her up and return them to their original position. Continue flushing the bird by picking it up by the tether and tossing in the air. Your dog must continue staunch in its original position no matter how many times you toss the bird into the air. Repeat until your dog consistently remains staunch.
Next month we will discuss the trained retrieve which is the final phase to having a started dog; one with which you can enjoy your first hunting season together.
August 2010
In this segment, our sixth in the series, we will be discussing teaching your dog to be staunch on point and to hold point when the bird is flushed. This is referred to as “steady to the wing.”
We begin this process by placing a live pigeon on a tether. We use pigeons for this process as they are plentiful, economical and are fairly hardy. I like to use an old rod and reel equipped with fly line and a swivel snap. Fly line holds up the best, especially when you move this drill to the field. Initially, we will be working the dog as part of yard training. Next, I place a #5 or #6 split ring on one of the legs of the bird using a simple trash bag zip tie. Insert the tie through the split ring, and place around the leg of the bird cinching it between the foot and leg joint. Be careful not to cinch it too tight. It should move freely up and down the leg. Attach the split ring to the swivel snap and now you have a tethered bird. (See photo below)
Place the tethered pigeon on the ground, and have your dog point the bird. This process can be accomplished right in your backyard. This drill is similar to the “wing on a string” game you played with your pup when it was 8-10 weeks old. However, there are a couple of major differences. One, your dog is several weeks/months older. Two, your dog is obedient and consistently obeys the WHOA command. You cannot undertake this process until your dog is WHOA broke to command.
Initially, you will want your dog on a check cord with a friend holding the cord to keep the dog from breaking point. The check cord should be attached to the dog using a cinch hook up. (See photo below)
This type of hookup reduces the chance of your dog becoming a “blinker”, which is a dog that wants to avoid birds. The corrective stimulation occurs around the dog’s flank and not the neck. Thus, the dog has less chance of associating the correction with the bird. You may substitute your e-collar for the check cord, as shown in the photo below, provided your dog has been properly conditioned to the e-collar. This eliminates the need for you to have a second party to hold the dog.
Begin by placing the tethered bird on the ground. Have your dog point the bird some 60-70 feet away. While the dog is staunch on point, move the bird slightly. This will put stress on the dog to pounce on the bird. If the dog moves, even slightly, command WHOA, and place the dog back into its original position. Move the bird again, and repeat the process until the dog stays staunch in its original position. Now you can increase the degree of movement and position the bird closer to the dog until the dog remains steady, even if the bird is directly under its nose. Now go back to 60-70 feet distance, and have the bird fly 10-15 yards or until it reaches the end of the tether. (I have about 25-30 yards of tethered lead.) Remember, you want your dog to mark the flight and fall of the bird. Movement within a circle allows them to do so.
Once your dog holds consistently throughout this drill, you are ready to move this process into the field. That will be our topic for next month.
Remember, it is a step-by-step process and should not be rushed.
Patience is the key here!
July 2010
Our fifth in this series is the most important of all. In this program, we will be discussing the WHOA command. It is the most important of all the obedience commands as it is the foundation for having a finished (completely trained) pointing dog.
A finished pointing dog is one that is staunch on point, meaning it holds its pointing position, until the hunter arrives to flush the bird. It will be steady to wing, holding its staunch position when the bird flushes. It will follow the flight of the bird and mark the fall when the hunter shoots the bird. It will retrieve the bird to hand upon command of the hunter. Also, it will honor or back another dog’s point. This means it will freeze in a staunch pointing position upon seeing another dog on point and maintain that position until released by its hunter/handler.
There are four steps I use to teach my dogs the WHOA command.
 |
STEP 1 It is important to note that your dog must HEEL consistently before you begin WHOA training. We covered the HEEL command in last month’s Training Tip. Command your dog to heel and then say the command, WHOA. Force your dog to stop using the lead hookup shown at the left.
Repeat the HEEL-WHOA command 50 to 100 times per training session until the dog consistently stops upon command. If the dog continues to resist, cut up a hot dog and place pieces 15 to 20 feet apart on the sidewalk. When you approach the |
piece of hot dog, command your dog to WHOA. Of course your dog will stop to eat the piece of hot dog. Command HEEL and go to the next piece and keep repeating the process until your dog consistently stops. You can gradually eliminate the hot dog pieces. Repeat the HEEL-WHOA drill until the dog stops consistently without the use of the hot dog.
Step 2
Now when you command WHOA, take half a step to the side of the dog. Your dog will more than likely follow you, because that is what he did during HEEL-WHOA drills. Place your dog back into its original position, again commanding WHOA moving half a step to the side. Repeat this process until the dog remains stationary. Next, increase to a full step to the side repeating the process until you can move to the entire length of the lead.
Then walk all the way around the dog at the full extension of the lead. If the dog moves at all, command WHOA and place the dog back in the original position as when you commanded WHOA.
STEP 3
Now you can hook your dog to the check cord (30 feet minimum). Start at the mid-point of the cord, as shown below, and command WHOA.
Keep repeating the process until you can move the entire length of the cord and your dog remains staunch and does not move. Tug lightly on the cord, commanding WHOA. If your dog moves toward you, place him back in his original position. You want your dog to hold that position until you release him/her.
Once your dog remains staunch consistently, you may eliminate the check cord entirely.
Step 4
Command WHOA with your dog off-lead starting at 30 feet from the dog. Keep moving back until you are 25, 50, and 75 yards from your dog.
Once your dog consistently respond to the WHOA command at a distance off-lead, you are ready to begin teaching “steady to the wing”.
Remember to be patient as it takes many repetitions for your dog to completely learn WHOA. One or two short training sessions (10-15 minutes) per day is much better than one or two long sessions per week.
Stop by again next month as we will discuss teaching your dog to be steady to the wing. See you then.
June 2010
This is the fourth in our series to get your pup ready for that first hunting season. In this session, we will be discussing the obedience commands of “HEEL”, “DOWN” and a release command. This could be your dog’s name or you can use “OK”. We’ll also discuss quartering.
The “HEEL” command is an important tool to keep your dog under control both at home or in the field. How many times have we seen owners walking their dogs with the dog actually pulling them down the sidewalk? The dogs are walking them! The “HEEL” command enables you to keep your dog at your side and under control when necessary.
I like to teach this command using a two lead hookup as shown in the photo below.
 |
I use a slip lead around the dog’s neck and a cinch lead around the dog’s flank. This way you have you your dog under control in the front as well as the rear. Say the command “HEEL” and make the dog walk at your side. When the dog tries to walk ahead or fall behind bring the dog to your side as shown. The dog will learn to stay at your side even when you turn to change direction. Practice this drill daily. Ten minutes in the morning and Ten minutes in the afternoon and in no time you will have the dog heeling comfortably at your side. Remember, your goal is to have your dog heeling off-lead by the time hunting season rolls around. |
Note: Right handed shooters should have their dog heel at their left side and left handed shooters vice versa. This practice reduces the chance of your dog interfering with the handling of your firearm.
Our next command, “DOWN,” is an especially valuable tool around the home or on hunts when your dog is not kenneled. Again, the goal is to have your dog under control.
The “DOWN” command keeps your dog from being a pest when friends stop by or during a hunt when you stop to take a break or to have lunch at your vehicle. The command is taught using the same lead hookup described above. Say the command “DOWN” while you pull down on both leads. Be careful not to pull down too hard, as to not injure the dog. Hold the dog in the “DOWN” position a couple of seconds releasing it with the command “OK” or the dog’s name. This is a good time to work with your dog on the release command. See photo below.
Gradually increase the length of time the dog remains down until your dog holds without restraint for 2-3 minutes. Keep repeating, on-lead, until your dogs responds on its own with no force on your part. Keep increasing the time until your dog remains in the “DOWN” position for 30 minutes. The dog should not move until you give the release command.
Now you have a dog that is under control and you can proceed with some yard training. I like to start with teaching my dogs to quarter. That is to cover a specific piece of ground and to change direction upon command. I have the dog on a check cord as described in last months (May) training tip. I let the dog run and say the command “HUT, HUT” and pull the dog in the opposite direction. Start out at a short length of the cord increasing the distance as the dog responds favorably to the command. Once your dog responds consistently, without you tugging on the cord to get him/her to change direction, you can drop the cord to the ground. Allow the dog to drag it to provide some degree of resistance. Also, you can grab it to gain control if necessary. Again, two-a-day drills of about 10 minutes each and soon you will have your dog nicely quartering your entire yard.
Next month, we will be discussing the “WHOA” command. This is the most important command for a pointing dog to learn as it is the foundation to having a completely trained dog for the field.
May 2010
This is the third in a series designed as a guide to choosing that new pup and getting them ready for their first hunting season. This session will concentrate on some obedience commands and that first introduction to birds.
Previously, I mentioned all of the obedience commands you will need and discussed the “KENNEL” command. In this segment we will discuss the “HERE” and “NO” commands.
We want our pup to come to us when called. I prefer the command “HERE” to “COME” as most handlers/owners get frustrated when pup does not respond to “COME” and add the word “here”. Thus saying “COME HERE” in a raised voice. Thus, just say the command “HERE”. Initially, you will teach this command with pup on a short lead, saying “HERE” and dragging pup to you. Praise pup profusely even though you had to drag him/her to you. This is a good time to teach pup his/her name by adding it to the end of the command. Get down to pups level as this will encourage pup to come to a less imposing figure. Pretty soon, pup will come to you without much tugging.
Now is the time to introduce pup to the check cord. You will use this device throughout the rest of your dogs training. I like a cord that is a minimum of 30 feet in length. You should use a soft textured cord on a young pup and go to a stiffer cord once pup is older and close to full size. We will talk more about the check cord once we get into yard training.
You will have pup on the check cord saying, “HERE”. You will increase the distance incrementally until pup comes consistently the entire length of the cord. Remember our goal is to have our dog come consistently “off lead”. So, the next step is to take pup to a hallway in your home. Close all of the doors so pup cannot be distracted by going into other rooms. Again, get down to pups level and call pup to you. Clap your hands to get pup excited and curious to come and see you. Repeat this drill daily and soon you will have pup coming consistently to you off lead. Then you can move the drill to other, more open areas. This will add distractions for pup. Soon he/she will avoid them and consistently come to you.
We now move to the “NO” command. It is an important command as we do not want our dog to get into certain things in the home or in the field. In the home, we want our dog to avoid the trash, jumping up on people or furniture and certain rooms. In the field, we do not want our dog chasing deer or other non-game wildlife such as skunks and porcupines.
To teach “NO”, place pup on a leash and lead pup to an object or area you want them to avoid. Say the command, “NO” in a sharp tone and lead pup away. Repeat daily and soon pup will learn to avoid items upon your command “NO”. Remember, from our previous article, that dogs learn by memory through repetition. So repeat, repeat, repeat! The goal is for your dog to avoid things or places that could cause him/her harm or you frustration.
The first introduction to birds is to allow pup to awaken his/her natural instincts. You want pup to be excited around or near birds. Don’t worry about pup chasing at this time. In fact you want pup to do just that, awaken his/her prey drive and chase!
Control will come later in yard training. I like to use pigeons in this exercise. The first stage is to “lock wing” the bird so it cannot fly and will only be able to walk clumsily as to be an easy catch for pup. Take the pigeon into your hand and extend both wings vertically over its back. Next take one wing and cross it over the other a full 360 degrees until it “locks” into position.
The bird will be unable to release its wings on its own. You need not use a lot of force as we do not want to injure the bird. Next, place the pigeon on the ground in a controlled area. Release pup and let pup explore the bird and chase it and catch it. Remember, we are awakening pups instinct and not controlling it at this point. Once pup shows all kinds of interest and consistently catches the bird, we can go the next step; the “clipped wing” pigeon. Here we either remove the primary flight feathers of the bird or we “clip” them together using string or “twist tie”. The primary feathers are the longest two to three on the tips of the bird’s wing. Now the pigeon can flap its wings and is more mobile but it cannot fly very far. This will further excite pup and his pursuit will be of a longer distance. Again, this should occur in a controlled area. Pup may show a reluctance to grab the bird due to increased wing flapping. If pup becomes fearful, stop the process and return to the locked wing drill until pup gains more confidence. Pup may actually retrieve the bird to you. If so, praise pup lavishly but do not expect or insist pup to retrieve consistently at this point. Pup will usually want to keep its “prized possession”. Let him/her do so. Do not try and grab the bird from pup as you may cause pup to bite harder Thus, pup could become a hard mouthed dog. We are not teaching retrieving at this point, just excitement about birds.
Stop by again next month as we will be discussing how to teach our pup the “HEEL”, “DOWN” and “OK” (release) commands. Also, we will get you started on yard training.
April 2010
This is the second in a series designed as a guide to choosing that new pup and getting them ready for their first hunting season. The topics for this session will be the dynamics of dog behavior, the importance of proper socialization, housebreaking, and beginning obedience training.
Dogs are the direct descendents of wolves (canis lupis). They have been selectively bred for tens of thousands of years to get to where they are today. Still, only 2 tenths of one percent (0.2%) differentiates a dogs DNA from that of the wolf! Pretty amazing! Wolves live in family units known as “packs” and there is a hierarchy in the pack. The most dominant wolf is the “pack leader”. The remainder align themselves in the pecking order according to dominance.
It is important for you, as owner/trainer to understand this concept. You will be the “pack leader” when it comes to training and handling your dog. You must gain the respect of your dog to achieve control. You gain that respect by being consistent in your commands and treatment of your dog. It does not mean being harsh or gruff. You will gain the respect of your dog by consistently using the same commands and making sure your dog understands and obeys them. Also, other members of your family must use the same commands and demand the same response from your dog as they are next in line in the “pecking order”. Your dog will move ahead of them in the pecking order if inconsistent commands and expectations are given.
Dogs learn by memory and rely a great deal on instinct. Some are smarter than others but they all learn the same way. Dogs are unable to reason as we do. They learn a skill through frequent repetition. The skill is then committed to memory. It is very important to maintain eye contact when teaching a skill as your dog associates the command with voice tone and body language. Remember, praise for good behavior will get you much further than disciplinary correction for poor behavior. However, discipline and correction are important. Make your corrections short and to the point, then move on.
Next, it is very important for your dog to be well-socialized. That is, it must be comfortable around you, other members of your family, other humans and other dogs. This starts immediately after birth. The newborn pups will interact with their mother, littermates and the breeder. It is very important for the breeder to spend as much time possible with the pups both as a group and individually. Love and affection by the breeder will go a long way in developing proper socialization of the pups. As the litter develops, the breeder will watch and learn the different personality traits of the pups. Who is dominant? Who is more submissive? This is important in the matching of the proper pup with the right owner. Once you bring pup home, it is very important for you and your family members to spend a lot of time with pup. This is when the pecking order will be established and pup will bond with each of you. The first 6 to 8 months is their prime learning time. They’re like sponges, soaking up everything they can.
Now let us review housebreaking. It starts immediately upon pup’s arrival at your home. As presented in our March tip, you can train your dog to use a specific area to relieve themselves. Take pup out to the place you had previously established as his/her bathroom area. Let pup check it out and, oh yes, they will make their first deposit. Also, we had previously mentioned the importance of having a travel kennel or crate on hand when pup arrives. The travel kennel will become their “safe place” as they will sleep in it as well as spend a lot of time in it when not interacting with you. It will become their “home away from home” when you travel together. I like the LIFO method of housebreak training. The LAST thing before putting pup into the crate is to have them do their business. The FIRST thing when they come out of their crate is to do their business. Thus, Last In First Out. If you follow this religiously, you will have far fewer accidents and pup will become house-trained quickly. Say the word “kennel” when placing pup into the crate. You will be introducing pup to the kennel command and pup will start committing it to memory and learning to kennel upon command. Also, do not let pup walk to his relief area. Carry pup to the area or you will certainly have an accident along the way!
Finally, here are the obedience commands that you will be teaching your dog.
| DEAD | |
| DOWN | |
| FETCH | |
| HEEL | |
| HERE | |
| KENNEL | |
| NO | |
| OK / "DOG’S NAME" (release command) | |
| WHOA |
You will start with the following three:
| HERE | |
| KENNEL | |
| NO |
Please refer to above instructions on the kennel command. HERE and NO are taught at this time as you obviously want pup to come to you when called and you certainly want pup to avoid certain things or areas. Things like your shoes or slippers, the trash, and jumping up on people. Areas like the street and certain rooms of your home.
I recommend you get some training books and videos not only for obedience but all facets of training a bird dog. Here are some recommendations:
BOOKS:
“Training Pointing Dogs” by Paul Long
“Gun Dog” by Richard A. Wolters
VIDEOS:
“So You Want to Own a Bird Dog” by yours truly. (Click to Purchase)
“Training the Upland Retriever” by George Hickcox
Also, you will need some basic equipment to facilitate the early training process.
| Puppy collar | |
| Center ring collar (16-20 weeks) | |
| Slip lead | |
| Puppy check cord | |
| Puppy dummies |
Remember to be consistent and insistent in your commands. Keep them simple, one word commands.
See you again next month as we review additional obedience commands and your pup’s first introduction to birds.
March 2010
Spring is right around the corner. If you are considering a gun dog pup, now is the time to get one. A pup purchased in the spring, with regular training, can be ready to hunt with you by the fall bird hunting season.
Will your new hunting companion be the “field general” you envisioned when you brought him/her home for the first time? Of course not. However, if you are diligent in your spring and summer training sessions, by the time hunting season rolls around, you will have a started pup ready to grow into the dog of your dreams.
Let’s get started. OK you’ve decided to get a bird dog and it’s your first one. How do I go about making the right choice?
The very first thing you do is to evaluate your bird hunting preferences. Are you primarily an upland hunter or more of a waterfowler? If waterfowl hunting is your passion, you would be wise to select one of the retriever breeds, such as a Lab or a Chessie. Or if the uplands are your focus, then one of the pointing breeds, such as an English Setter or Pointer, may fill the bill. If you are like me, you love it all; upland and waterfowl hunting. Then one of the versatile breeds may be for you. A German Shorthair or German Wirehair would be a fine choice. They are known as versatile breeds. They are excellent pointing dogs in the uplands while being efficient retrievers both on land and in the water. You may also want to consider a pointing lab, which have become very popular. I suggest that you obtain a copy of the “Encyclopedia of North American Sporting Breeds” which discusses 76 sporting breeds.
Should I choose a male or female? Well, there are advantages and disadvantages to each...
| Advantages of Males: | Disadvantages of Males: |
| 1. Usually a bigger dog in size for the breed. | 1. Due to their more aggressive nature, they can be a little more difficult to train. |
| 2. Tend to be somewhat more aggressive in nature. | 2. May be more difficult to housetrain. |
| 3. Do not have heat cycles. |
| Advantages of Females: | Disadvantages of Females: |
| 1. Smaller in stature than males if you are looking for a smaller size for the particular breed. | 1. If you elect not to spay, their heat cycles will cause you to lose hunting time. |
| 2. Their less aggressive nature makes them easier to train. | 2. If you elect to breed you may lose hunting time as well. |
| 3. Easier to housetrain. |
In any event, you should choose a pup that fits your personality. If you are a go-getter, type-A personality, you would choose a dog with similar traits. Conversely, if you are more laid-back, you would choose a less aggressive or “softer” dog. Your breeder will have spent a lot of time with the pups and can lead you in the right direction here. Also, if possible, take someone knowledgeable in owning and training bird dogs with you when you select your pup.
You have now selected a breed and gender. What’s next? Selecting a breeder is the next step in the process. Your pup should come from a reputable breeder. What constitutes a reputable breeder? The obvious is a professional breeder/trainer of the particular breed in which you are interested. Not so obvious is to consider a private breeder who belongs to a local sporting dog club or is an avid field trialer. They posses a great deal of knowledge and you will be getting a dog with championship bloodlines. They are usually breeding their dog to obtain another excellent dog.
Whatever your choice, you should expect the breeder to provide the following:
| 1. Certified pedigree of the sire and dam (AKC or Field Dog Stud Book) 2. Records of all shots 3. Dew claws should be removed. 4. Tails should be docked on those breeds requiring such. 5. OFA certification on those breeds suspected of hip dysplasia. 6. Opportunity to view pups at 5-6 weeks of age before selecting your pup at 8 weeks. |
Lastly, you should do the following before bringing your new pup home:
| 1. Determine where your pup will eat and sleep in your home. 2. Purchase a travel kennel or crate as this makes a great place for pup to sleep and aids tremendously in housebreaking and is your pup’s “home away from home” when you are traveling. 3. Have a dog run set up in your yard and determine where you want pup to “do its business”. 4. If possible, have a name already selected. Choose a one- or two-syllable name at most. This makes it much easier when teaching verbal commands. 5. Purchase premium puppy food. You may want to select the same food the breeder was feeding. 6. Purchase a puppy collar with I.D., leash and softer type check cord. You will be starting training as soon as pup arrives at your home. 7. Chew toys are a must. However, do not purchase those that squeak. This will only encourage your dog to bite down and could result in future hard mouth problems. 8. Obtain books and videos on raising and training bird dogs. Read them BEFORE you bring your pup home. |
Well, that should keep you busy this month. Next month, we’ll take the next steps of preliminary training and getting pup off to a good start.
February 2010
As I write this article, the 2009-2010 upland hunting season is drawing to a close (January 31st). Well, Cheyenne and I have a last weekend eastern Colorado pheasant hunt scheduled; the last hurrah for this season. It has been a great year for pheasant hunting in the northeast part of our state. In fact, it’s been the best in over 30 years! So we hope to close the season with a bang (pun intended).
What does one do next to satisfy that “craving” to hunt the uplands. That is the subject for this month’s training tip.
The answer is simple. Join a local dog or hunting club. Cheyenne and I enjoy our membership in the Colorado Gun Dog Association, www.coloradogundog.org. Here we participate in field trials and competition hunts which run from the first of February to the end of May. Then it is only three months until it starts all over again! (September 1st, in most states)
Also, these facilities offer a great place to train and condition your dog throughout the off season. Many offer training help and training bird sources.
No doubt you are asking, “How do I find such a facility in my area?” The internet is always a great resource from which to start. Local sporting dog breeders and trainers are an excellent choice as well. Also, NAVHDA (North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association) and NSTRA (National Shoot to Retrieve Association) can direct you to local affiliates.
Our dogs are with us only for a short period of time. We owe it to them to provide as many opportunities to do what they were bred and born to do; spend enjoyable days a field, hunting with you!
January 2010
Well, we are getting towards the end of this years upland hunting season. Wow, where did the time go! As January approaches, we make every effort to crowd in those last hunts because we know it will be another 7+ months before we can go afield again for wild birds. Of course, and I do, we can go to our favorite hunt or dog club and extend the season on pen raised birds. However, nothing satisfies like hunting wild birds.
Now you may be asking, “What is he getting at?” Well, the purpose of this article is to prepare your dog for cold weather hunts. Dogs may burn up to twice as many calories hunting in very cold conditions, say 10 degrees F. Throw in some wind and snow. Now you have perfect conditions for your dog to easily develop hypothermia. Here are a few tips that can help:
1. Make sure your dog is well hydrated. Many dogs “turn their nose up” when offered water in the field. I add a little beef or chicken broth crystals to the water to give it flavor. Also, have a squirt bottle or folding cup with you in your vest. Pause every 15 – 20 minutes and force them to drink a few ounces. Cold air is very dry. When dogs breathe heavily they expel moisture from their system much quicker than in 40 to 50 degree weather.
2. Rest your dog more often. Take a break to enjoy all the aspects of the hunt. Your dogs legs and yours too will welcome a rest.
3. Increase the amount of food you give your dog during the hunting season. They are burning twice the calories than during the off season. Also, add water to the food during the hunting season. I make the dry food “slurpy” to ensure hydration.
4. Get your dog on a dietary supplement such as our “Hunt Dog Hunt” formula. It contains antioxidants which will reduce fatigue and give your dog more energy in the field.
5. Carry some packaged “burger” foods in your vest. This provides a high energy snack along with some moisture. About 1/3 of a package three times during the day should suffice.
6. Put a chest protector on your dog. Their chests and tummies are in almost constant contact with snow which exposes the skin to extreme cold. Their undersides, especially shorthaired pointing breeds, have much less hair for protection. Also, hard crusty snow can actually cut your dog’s skin. This leads to another tip.
7. Dog Boots! Your dog has hair between its pads. This is especially true for the longer haired breeds. Ice can build up between the pads causing your dog to either stop and chew or to quit hunting altogether.
8. Last, but surely not least. Make sure your travel kennel is equipped with an insulation cover. This especially holds true if your dog travels in the exposed bed of a pick up. Even if your truck has a topper unit, an insulated cover on the travel kennel will protect your dog from windy drafts that come during travel at higher speeds.
May you all enjoy the last 30 days of the season. You will have less competition on public access areas and land owners are more apt to grant permission to hardy souls willing to brave the elements of late season hunting.
December 2009
Last month we discussed how you can make or purchase a silhouette dog to use in honor/backing training. This month’s discussion covers how to train your dog to honor using this device. I call my silhouette dog “Woody” because of its plywood construction.
I place “Woody” on a wire support as seen above. This way it can be set into the ground or mounted on a 2”x6”x24” board for use on frozen or hard ground.
Your dog should have mastered the “WHOA” command and be steady to the wing before you attempt to teach honoring.
You will want to have your dog on a check cord (30'+ in length). The cord should be attached to the center ring of your dog’s collar, taken down the top of the dog’s back, and then wrapped around the flank of the dog between the rib cage and hind quarter as shown with the rear lead in the photo below. This is called the “cinch” hookup.
We want the correction on the waist of the dog and not solely on the neck. This way the dog will not associate any corrections given with the bird, thus reducing any chance of your dog “blinking” (avoiding birds).
Also, you will need a bird release. Electronic units are an excellent choice in this application. However, they are fairly expensive. A manual release with a tether attached to operate the release handle works quite well. Pigeons are an excellent choice of bird as they fly well from a release and are inexpensive, costing $2 to $4 each.
Place “Woody” in an area of the field that is out of sight from your dog. Place the release containing the pigeon behind the mid-section of “Woody”. Lead your dog into the wind over the rise to “Woody”. Once you know your dog has seen the pointing silhouette and does not stop, command “WHOA” and pull briskly on the check cord. Remember, your dog is sensitive in the flank area so do not pull so hard as to injure your dog. A brisk pull will get his attention and it will be committed to his/her memory.
Keep tension on the cord requiring your dog to remain steady as you release the bird to flight. Hold the dog and command “WHOA” if the dog lunges to chase. Heel your dog back to your vehicle and kennel the dog for 15 minutes or so. This way the experience will sink in a bit. Take your dog out and repeat the process. Do this only twice in the first session and no more than three times in subsequent sessions.
Once your dog honors without command and tension on the cord, change the venue so your dog will learn to honor based on seeing “Woody” and not the particular location. Now repeat the procedure with the wind at your dogs back. This way you are teaching the dog to honor upon sight and not just scent.
Once your dog consistently honors the pointing silhouette in different locations and wind conditions without a check cord, you are ready to introduce a live dog. Your dog should pick it up immediately. You may need a couple of soft “WHOA” commands as a reminder and with a couple of repetitions your dog will have it down pat. Now you have a dog that will honor consistently whether it be a silhouette or real dog.
November 2009
Having your dog consistently honor or “back” another dog’s point is the finishing touch to having a completely trained bird dog. This is a fairly simple process if you have two dogs, one pointing and the other being taught to honor that dog’s point. However, what can you do if you have only one dog and yourself to do the training?
The solution is to make or purchase a silhouette dog. They can be purchased from a dealer specializing in bird hunting and dog training products. Or, you can make one yourself. Simply have your dog lay on its side on a 4’ x 8’ piece of plywood. Sketch a template of your dog onto the board, revising it into a pointing posture. Cut out the silhouette and paint it in a couple of contrasting colors, black or dark brown and white, which resemble a pointing breed. A good mounting stand is one of the metal ones used to advertise candidates running for public office. This is the election season, so the timing could not be better. Contact their campaign and I am sure they will give you one in return for your vote! You can obtain a couple of mounting brackets at the local hardware store. Now you are in business!
You have the month to either make or purchase your silhouette dog. Next month and we will discuss how to train your dog to honor using the silhouette dog. See you then.
Cheyenne in an honoring position utilizing the silhouette.
October 2009
One of the most frequent questions I get asked is, “My dog is gun shy. How can I correct it?” The best solution is to prevent it in the first place. Gun shy dogs are made, usually by their owners, and not born. Some dogs are more sensitive to loud noises than others. This type of dog can be prone to being gun shy if not properly introduced to the gun. The following are some step-by-step suggestions that will aid in the prevention of gun shyness. Steps 2 through 5 apply to correcting a gun shy dog as well. Just be very sensitive to the dog and proceed very slowly, spending more time with each step in the process.
1. When at the breeder selecting your puppy, toss a couple of game bird wings attached to a string onto the ground amidst the pups. Drag the wings around and let the pups get interested in the chase. Once the pups are in pursuit, clap your hands and note the ones that interrupt the chase to look at you. These could be sound sensitive pups. Note I said “could”. Or they could be just plain curious. Continue the chase and step up the noise level using a pan with a wooden spoon. Again, note the reaction of the pups. Is this fool-proof? No, but it is an indicator as to which dog may be sound sensitive. There are other factors to consider when choosing a pup from a breeder. We will talk about these in a future training tip session.
2. Once you have your pup home a few days and pup is familiar with his/her surroundings, clap your hands while your pup is eating.
Again, you are looking for pup’s reaction to unfamiliar noise. If pup stops to look at you, stop clapping. When pup returns to eat, clap again. Do this until pup stops looking toward you and continues eating. Do the same with the pan and spoon. Once pup ignores you, stop the process, for you have conditioned your dog to a strange noise.
3. The next step is to ramp up to the cap gun. This should be done several weeks later, after your pup has had his/her first introduction to birds. In the meantime your pup will be learning a few basic obedience commands such as HERE, NO and KENNEL. Place a clipped wing pigeon onto the ground and let your dog chase it around. This is a repeat of the process of your introducing your dog to birds. Have a friend stand 60 to 75 yards away and fire the gun once while your dog is focused upon and chasing the bird. If the dog turns to see what is going on, praise him/her and discontinue the process for the day. Repeat the process until the dog shows no interest in the gun fire and remains focused on the bird.
4. The next step is to move closer to the dog, say 25-30 yards, and repeat the process. Once the dog shows no interest repeat the process until you can stand within 10-15 feet right or left of the dog, fire the cap pistol, and get no reaction towards gunfire. Now you and your dog are ready for the next step. NOTE: Never fire a gun directly over your dog. Their hearing is so sensitive that even the best gun-conditioned dog could be harmed.
5. The next steps in the process are to move up to a training pistol, one that shoots 6mm crimps or standard 209 shotgun primers. Once the dog shows no reaction, you can go to a .410 and then to a 20 or 12 gauge. Now you have a dog that is properly introduced to the gun.
Never take your dog to the trap, skeet or sporting clay range to be with you when shooting. Continuous gun fire can ruin the best gun-conditioned dog. You want your dog to associate the fun of hunting with gun fire. If you follow this step-by-step approach, your dog will react gleefully when you pull that old shotgun from the closet.
September 2009
The hunting season is almost upon us. In fact dove hunting is set to start in most states on September 1st. I like to bring Cheyenne with me as it is our first actual hunting outing for the season. We train a lot during the year but this makes for a great “tune up” for the season to come. Also, there is nothing like a good dove hunt to get your shooting eye in shape.
Many of the upland preserves will be opening up by the middle of this month. So now is the time to get that bird dog of yours into some live birds. The more exposure to live birds the better your dog will hunt for you. You cannot over expose your dog to birds.
August 2009
Well the bird hunting season is almost upon us. In many states it starts around the 1st of September with the dove hunting season. In my state of Colorado, we are fortunate to begin with several species. Dove, blue grouse, mountain sharptail grouse, sage grouse, ptarmigan, chukar and band tailed pigeon seasons all start in September.
Now is the time to get your bird dog (and you) off the couch and into the fields for some serious conditioning. Many a serious hunter “roads” their dog(s) with a harness system hooked up to their ATV. If you own a bicycle you can have your dog run beside you. Be careful as to not letting the lead get caught up in the spokes. Just plain jogging with your dog will improve their condition if they have been inactive all summer. Too many hunters neglect to do pre-season conditioning. Your dog requires “training camp” just like professional athletes.
So get your dogs into the fields and work them on pen raised birds or wild birds if available. Remember, it can be very hot this time of year. So confine your workouts to early morning or evening hours when the temperature is cooler. Also, have plenty of water available as you want to keep your dog well hydrated.
July 2009
Use of the E-Collar
in Teaching Staunchness, Steady to Wing and Steady to Shot
Dogs may become bird shy or “blinkers” if they associate corrections made with an E-collar in the neck area. In fact, I do not use an E-collar at all during early staunchness and steady to wing and shot training. I prefer to use a check cord cinched around the flank area. Always remember the E-collar is a reinforcing tool. It is used once your dog has learned a certain command using conventional methods.
Once your dog has learned to be fairly staunch and steady to wing utilizing the check cord, you can move to the E-Collar (black collar) hookup shown in the photo to reinforce staunchness and steadiness at a distance.
Dogs do not seem to associate the birds with corrections made by stimulation to the flank area as they would to the area around the neck. The receiver should be positioned on the upper side of the flank.
If your E-collar has several levels of stimulation be sure to set it at a low level as dogs are very sensitive in the flank area. Also, make sure it is not too tight but tight enough as to not slip around to the dogs under belly.
June 2009
Last month we discussed converting verbal commands to the whistle. Our June tip takes this a step further by converting the whistle/verbal command to the tone sound on your electronic collar. ( Requires an electronic collar with a tone feature).
Let’s review the three commands we converted to the whistle. “WHOA”, one long whistle blast. “HERE” several short whistle blasts. “DIRECTION/QUARTERING” in the field, two short blasts along with corresponding hand signals. It is very simple once your dog responds consistently to the verbal or whistle command. Simply add the appropriate number of tone beeps using the tone feature on the transmitter of your electronic collar as you did in teaching the whistle commands. After a few sessions you can eliminate the verbal or whistle command. Since your dog already knows the appropriate verbal and whistle commands, he or she will respond to the tone commands fairly quickly.
This feature allows you to control your dog in the field at greater distances, especially under extreme wind conditions. Also, you will be less likely to alert the birds of your presence.
Again, be sure to convert only one command at a time as to not confuse your dog. Remember, dogs learn by repetition and lots of it.
May 2009
I am frequently asked “ How do I whistle train my dog? ” It is very simple once your dog responds consistently to the verbal command. It is important that you convert very few commands to the whistle. You do not want to confuse your dog and you do not want to annoy your hunting companions.
I use three whistle commands; one long blast for WHOA; several short blasts for HERE; and two short blasts along with hand signals for direction/quartering in the field.
Your dog will learn the command quickly if you add the appropriate whistle blast after you give the verbal command. After a few training sessions, you can eliminate the verbal command and just use the whistle for that command. Be sure to convert only one command at a time as to not confuse your dog. Remember, dogs learn by repetition and lots of it.
The important virtue in all dog training is PATIENCE!
April 2009
The spring and summer months are upon us and this is a good time to work with your pup or young dog on obedience training. There are several good books, magazines and video programs available that cover obedience training as it pertains to developing a good gun dog. You may email me at cjk@huntsmartpro.com and I will be happy to reference some for you. Remember, an untrained dog in the field or blind is worse than having no dog at all.
March 2009
Frequent exposure to game birds is so important to the development of a competent bird dog. Now that the bird hunting season is drawing to a close many of you may be wondering what you can do to keep your bird dog sharp. Here are a couple of suggestions:
1. Take your dog to one of the upland hunting preserves in your area. They usually remain open for hunting until the end of March. Also, many provide year round training including game birds.
2. You can join a bird dog club in your area as they have access to training bird sources.
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CJ & Shawnee
CJ Kausel of Hunt Smart
Productions, LLC has trained
and hunted over his own bird
dogs for 30 years. He is a
member of the Colorado Gun
Dog Association, a sporting
dog club for pointing breeds.
CJ and his shorthairs have
given dog demonstrations and
seminars at the local
Sportsman’s Warehouse,
Gander Mountain and Bass
Pro Shops outlets. Also, they
have appeared the last
several years in the sporting
dog arena at the Sportsman’s
Expo held each January at the
Denver Convention Center.
Learn more about CJ and
Hunt Smart Productions at